Creams and Lotions Recipes

IMPORTANT:  READ ALL THE INFORMATION FIRST BEFORE BEGINNING.  Do not try to cut these recipes in half.  There will not be enough liquid for the blender blades to work with, and the mixture will not always thicken sufficiently. 

WATER AND OIL:  The basis of creams and lotions is water and oil. However, these ingredients can be mixed and matched to meet the needs of any skin type.  The water portion of your recipe can be any one, or a combination of the ingredients in the water list below; the same holds true for the oil list.  Just be sure to maintain the proper proportion of water to oil in a recipe.  All lotions and creams will become firmer as they cool, so it is easier to pour them into bottles or jars as soon as they are blended and still warm.  If you use a saturated oil such as cocoa butter or coconut oil, the product will be even firmer when cold, but will melt readily when applied to the skin.

WATER:  Distilled water, spring water, aloe vera juice, or rosewater.

OIL:  Any vegetable oil, herbal oil infusion, cocoa butter, or coconut oil. 

EMULSIFYING WAX:  This is a specially treated wax that makes for a complete (stable) emulsion when combined with water/oil mixtures. 

In a heat-safe measuring cup combine the sweet almond oil, cocoa butter, vegetable glycerin, and emulsifying wax.  Melt everything together in the microwave (approximately 1 - 2 minutes) or by the "double-boiler" method (nest the measuring cup into a saucepan containing 1 to 2 inches of water.  Heat over medium heat until melted, stirring occasionally). 

Measure out water into a blender.  Turn the blender on low and very slowly and steadily pour in the melted oil mixture.  You should now have a thick, beautiful cream. 

Add the essential oils last, turning on the blender just enough to incorporate the oils and being careful not to overblend the mixture.  Pour into the jars while still warm, as it will thicken as it cools.  Cap jars when completely cooled.  Store any extra cream in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life.

Follow the same directions as for making "BASIC CREAM." 

Cold-Process Soapmaking

Prepare to embark on the experience of handcrafting your own luxurious bath soaps.  You will be surprised at just how easy it can be to create such beautiful bars from just a few basic ingredients in just a few easy steps. 

The actual process of making soap includes the following basic steps: 

• HEATING:  An oil/fats mixture and a water and lye solution are brought to a high temperature and combined.

• SAPONIFICATION:  The chemical reaction between the oils and water/lye solution.

• MOLDING:  The thickened, liquid soap is poured into prepared molds, then set aside to dry and harden.

• CURING AND AGING:  The process during which a batch of soap cools, dries and cures over a period of weeks.

The advantages of making your own soap are numerous.  Firstly, the beneficial glycerin that occurs naturally in soap is left in rather than being processed out by chemicals.

Also, it is a very inexpensive way to indulge yourself.  You can now afford to have the most luxurious bath accompaniments for only pennies out of your pocket, plus the thrill of making them yourself. 

You can customize your soap to your own personal tastes, such as the color that you like, and any enrichments that please you. 

Some general information that you might be interested in: 

Lard and tallow were once used exclusively in soap making due to the fact that saturated fats give a better performance.  Hydrogenated vegetable shortenings, however, can be excellent substitutes as they are hard at room temperature. 

The animal fats and vegetable oils can be used interchangeably, with the vegetable shortening usually being preferred by vegetarians.  However, each oil or fat has a different saponification value, meaning it will require a different amount of lye to accomplish a proper chemical reaction.  So, it is important to refer to a saponification chart (available in soapmaking resource books or on the internet) prior to altering oils in a given recipe. 

EQUIPMENT YOU WILL NEED 

1. SAFETY EQUIPMENT:  protective gloves (latex, vinyl, etc.); protective eye wear, such as glasses, goggles, etc.; disposable facemask (optional) to help minimize inhalation of noxious lye fumes; and white vinegar or lemon juice to counteract any burning or itching in case of skin contact with the lye.

2. A large lye-resistant (stainless steel or ceramic) pot.  This is the master pot into which all the ingredients - fats or oils, lye/water solution and additives (scents, flowers, etc.) - will be blended.  Make sure that there are no signs of age such as cracks or chips that may cause a reaction with the lye.  Also, tin, aluminum, Teflon, etc., may corrode when in contact with lye.

3. Sturdy glass (Pyrex) or hard plastic pitcher (Rubbermaid works well) for combining the water and lye.  This container should have a pouring spout and be able to withstand a high temperature of water.

4. Large stainless steel spoon (for stirring and blending ingredients in the master pot), and rubber or latex spatulas and/or wooden spoons (for stirring water/lye solution and scraping liquid soap out of pot and into the mold).

5. Candy thermometer.

6. Blankets or towels (for covering the soap during the cooling and aging process).

7. Plastic wrap (to use as a mold liner).

HINTS BEFORE YOU GET STARTED 

1. Prepare your mold(s):  An effective method for lining the wooden box mold is to smear a thin layer of vegetable shortening throughout the interior of the box and then to line the box with a piece of plastic wrap, using the shortening to keep the plastic wrap in place.  Try to keep the plastic wrap as smooth as possible, thus minimizing the marks that will be left on your finished bars of soap.  If you choose to use different molds, non-stick vegetable spray or petroleum jelly works well for greasing molds.

2. Have all your ingredients measured and ready.  When measuring ingredients for soap, be sure to measure by weight (not liquid volume).  All the ingredients in your kit have been pre-measured for this recipe; however, for future batches of soap you will want a nice kitchen scale available for use.

3. Protect your work area.  Lye can be very damaging to your counter tops.  You will want to cover your counters with newspaper and/or work on a wooden cutting board, etc.  Have sponges, towels and vinegar available just in case of a spill in your work area.

4. OPTIONAL:  If you choose to add flowers, herbs or abrasives to your soap, you will want to have these finely ground or chopped.  A coffee grinder or mini food processor works well to grind a small amount (such as 1 - 2 tablespoons).

ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS 

VEGETABLE TALLOW/SHORTENING:  This is primarily made out of soybean oil and is best when used with other oils and not as the main ingredient.  It adds stability and bulk to your soap and blends well with other oils and additives. 

COCONUT OIL:  Coconut oil will make a creamy soap with a luxurious lather.  However, it can also dry out skin, so moisturizing oils should be added to the coconut oil base.  Depending on the room temperature, your coconut oil may be clear and liquid or thick and white, in which case it will need to be warmed up just a bit to return to its liquid state. 

COCOA BUTTER:  Cocoa butter is a rich skin soother and softener that yields a creamy soap. 

DISTILLED WATER:  Many of today's water systems are being treated with a variety of chemicals in order to make our water more appealing.  However, these additives may cause strange and unexpected reactions in your soap.  Therefore, it is advised that you always use distilled water in your soapmaking in order to guarantee the best possible results for your efforts. 

LYE (SODIUM HYDROXIDE):  Be sure that you are using 100% sodium hydroxide (lye).  Do not use drain cleaner!!!  Drain cleaners are never okay to use in soapmaking.  Check the label to be sure that there are no additional ingredients that could cause harmful reactions if used in this situation. 

SOAP RECIPE

Yields approximately 7 - 4 oz. bars of soap

Combining water and lye:  Be sure to perform this step either outside or somewhere with good ventilation (such as under your stove ventilation system), because the fumes from the water/lye solution are noxious and will take your breath away.  While wearing your protective gloves, eye wear and facemask, measure the distilled water into your glass or plastic pitcher.  Slowly and steadily add the lye crystals with one hand while stirring with the other hand until all crystals are dissolved.  Be very careful not to splash any of the solution, as it immediately heats up to approximately 200° F and will burn. 

This solution will now need to cool down to approximately 97° - 100° F.  While it is cooling, continue with the next step:

Combining and heating the oils:  Measure the oils and fats into the stainless steel pot and melt together over low heat, while stirring to keep the temperature constant.  When melted, remove from heat immediately and cool to approximately 100° F.

In order to expedite the cooling process for the oil mixture, you may want to make a cold-water bath.  Fill your sink or a large plastic tub with cold water approximately half the depth of the stainless steel pot containing the hot oils.  Immerse the pot into the cold water and, while stirring regularly, monitor the temperature as it cools.  In order to get an accurate reading, be sure to register the temperature from the center of the oil mixture and not near the edge, where it may be cooler.  As the temperature approaches 110° F, remove the pot from the water.

At this point check the temperature level of the water/lye solution and repeat the cold-water bath process if necessary.  Continue checking the temperature levels of both mixtures and cool each until both register a temperature of 97°- 100° F.

Now you are ready to combine your two mixtures and observe saponification!

Again, very slowly, steadily and carefully pour the water/lye solution into the oil mixture while stirring slowly and continuously with your other hand.  Stir with slow and even strokes to mix the lye and the oils.  This will begin the process of saponification.  The mixture should now begin to thicken gradually.

Continue stirring until "tracing" occurs.  When your liquid soap has turned soupy and opaque, resembles thin pudding, and you can "trace" a line or design on the surface of the soap when you pick up the spoon and let the liquid drizzle off, then both mixtures have saponified and become one substance.  A vigorous stir will result in the best saponification.  The goal is to stir briskly enough so that the ingredients are well blended but not too briskly so as to create air bubbles in the liquid soap.  Tracing can take anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours.just be patient!

At this point you may add your essential oil, lavender flowers, and/or any other additives.  Stir these in quickly and immediately pour the soap into your prepared mold.

Cover the surface of your soap and mold with another layer of plastic wrap.  Next, cover the mold with blankets or towels.  The purpose of this curing and insulation period is to cool the soap at a steady rate and to allow the saponification process to continue.  If the soap cools too quickly, it will not harden correctly.  Leave the soap mold alone for 24 hours (don't even peek!!!). 

In 24 - 48 hours your soap should be firm enough to cut.  Slide the sides out of the mold, remove the plastic wrap, and replace the soap and sides to the mold.  Make sure that the notches are lined up on the mold sides, and, using a large, sharp, straight-edge knife, slice your bars of soap.

Once your bars are cut, place them on a piece of wax paper, cardboard or a drying rack.  Store them in a dark, dry place, free of drafts and temperature changes.  This is the second stage of the curing process.  Allow the soaps to age for three to four weeks, during which time the soap will harden, and the pH will stabilize, making the soap mild.

Enjoy your new soaps!!! 

IT DIDN'T WORK.CAN I FIX IT?

You just might, depending on what the problem is.  Below is a list of some of the more common problems and some possible solutions.

• Your soap should begin thickening in about 20 minutes.  If it has not begun to thicken after 45 minutes, read on:

If you are trying to make soap on a hot summer afternoon, the outside temperature may not be allowing the soap to cool enough to begin the saponification process.

Fill the sink with very cool water to a depth of about half of the pan.  Place the pan in the water and continue to stir.  You should see results in about 10 minutes. 

Stir until ready to put into the molds.  But be careful, it will thicken much faster this way. 

·        If the temperature of your ingredients was just a little off you might try this: 

Reheat your soap mixture over a low heat until a temperature of 110° F is reached.  Continue to stir.  Turn off the heat and stir for 20 minutes, or until thickened. 

·        If the mixture only thickens a little, and all else has failed, pour the soap into the mold and leave it overnight.  Check it in the morning, and you just might have a surprise waiting. 

·        If your batch begins to resemble cottage cheese, unfortunately it has curdled and there is no use saving it.  Throw it out immediately.  Use a large plastic bag into which to pour the mixture, and then wrap another paper bag around it.  Dispose of this in a safe manner.  Curdling is a result of inaccurate soap measurements or a too-rapid cooling process. 

ADDITIONAL SUGGESTIONS

REFERENCE MATERIALS:  At Lavender Lane Forever we have available several books and other reference materials full of information and ideas to further your soapmaking interests. 

Lip Balm and Solid Perfume

2 oz. (1/4  cup) Sweet Almond oil, Turkey Red oil, or other vegetable oil (do not use mineral oil)
½ oz. Beeswax
1 pierced Vitamin E capsule (optional)
¾ tsp. Flavor (vanilla extract, candy flavoring oil) or one of our lip balm flavorings

This recipe will fill approximately 12 - ¼ oz. lip balm tubes or jars.

DIRECTIONS:  Heat 2 oz. sweet almond oil and ½ oz. beeswax using a glass measuring cup with a pour spout in a double boiler or microwave (approximately one minute) to melt.  Add the vitamin E capsule (optional), which is a preservative.  Mix well.  After the mixture cools slightly, add ¾ teaspoon of flavoring and mix well again.  Pour into the tubes or jars. 

HINT:  In order to avoid a "well" forming in your lip balm as it cools, fill to just below the top of your container, and when the mixture cools finish filling to the top.

This recipe should make a good, firm balm, but if your prefer it softer like Vaseline or harder like wax, do the following:  while it is still warm, dip a teaspoon into the mixture and place your spoon in the freezer for a few minutes.  This will tell you right away what your consistency will be, or you can wait until your mixture cools to test it.  If it is too soft for your liking, you can re-warm and add more beeswax; if it is too hard, just re-warm and add more oil.  If you wish to enhance your blend with essential oils for healing you might try rosemary, tea tree, camphor or eucalyptus, etc.  Add a few drops of oil just before your mixture cools because essential oils are very volatile (evaporate quickly). 

Face Masks and More

Whether using French green clay, Moroccan red clay or Kaolin (china white clay), Bentoninte, or Fuller's Earth Clay, the results are wonderful for removing the toxins and other impurities from the skin. 

Mix enough clay (about a heaping teaspoon) and enough distilled water, rosewater or herbal tincture in the palm of your hand to make a spreadable paste and spread generously onto skin.  Leave on about 20 minutes, then rinse with warm water.  If using for a full body wrap, spread plastic onto a bed, or other flat surface and have someone help you paste-up.  You'll feel grand.... all over your body.

NOTE: Do Not make up a large batch (more than you would use in a month) or too many containers in advance to sell as the clay may harden before used.  You might consider giving or selling the powdered clays and the containers separately with instructions on how to use. 

Roses are best picked between 10:00 AM and Noon.  You want to pick them after the dew is off but before the sun has zapped al the essential oils from the flowers.  

Put as many fresh petals in your clear jar or crock as will fit and cover with distilled water. (They must be completely covered or the exposed petals may mildew).  Cover and let the sun shine on your container.  Like making sun tea, as the water heats, the color of the essential oils are extracted into the water giving you your floral water.  Depending upon the weather you can have your floral water after only one day in the sun. Note: Vodka is an optional addition to the water.  Since the concoction can turn, leaving a little floating island of mildew atop the water, we usually add a little vodka which kills bacteria and prolongs the scent of the rose water.  (Suggested vodka is 1/2 cup to a gallon of distilled water).

Decide how much rosewater you wish to bottle and add an equal amount of vegetable glycerin.  Shake well and bottle.  May be used all over the body.  Wonderful for all types of skin as a face or hand lotion.  Great on rough heals and elbows too.

Even the ancient knew the benefits of yogurt for use in and outside the body.  The face especially benefits from its healing and moisturizing qualities.

In the palm of you hand mix about 1 tablespoon of fresh yogurt to 1 tablespoon of flax seed meal until you have the consistency of paste. Gently rub this mixture all over your face and neck being careful to keep away from your eyes.  It won't hurt your eyes, but you need to be careful not to pull the tender area around your eyes.

This will clean the skin as well as slough off the dead cells while promoting good blood circulations.  Then rinse off with warm water for an extremely fresh and clean toner or astringent.

Toners help remove any film left by cleaners and then close the open pores.  Rosewater or witch hazel can be used independently or in combination by spritzing onto the face or applied with a cotton ball.  If blending, use 2 tablespoons rosewater to 1 tablespoon witch hazel.  Or an infusion can be made using 2 tablespoons of dry herbs or 3 handfuls of fresh herbs to 2 cups of boiling, distilled water.  Let sit cover for an hour.  strain and bottle.  Good herbs are marigold, comfrey, elder, marshmallow.

Scented Bath Crystals and Dusting Powder

Coarse Rock Salt or Sea Salt
Vegetable Food Coloring (assorted colors)
Essential or Fragrance Oil
Vegetable Glycerin (optional) 

In a lidded container---to each cup of rock salt add 3 to 5 drops of food coloring---mixing with a spoon or shaking well after each couple of drops until desired color is reached. To the colored crystals add: 20 to 25 drops of fragrance or essential oils----mixing or shaking container until oils are thoroughly absorbed.  To make them glisten like little jewels, add a teaspoon or so of glycerin.  Package in a pretty jar.  To use:  add about 1/2 cup to your bath or hot tub and swirl until dissolved. 

The salt will melt, softening the water, the glycerin will dissolve, moisturizing your skin, and the color will disappear completely. 

As you luxuriate in the warm waters, the precious ingredients from the essential oils will float to the surface, caressing your body with gentle whispers of scent as they soothe and moisturize.   

Though your bathing ritual may end when you leave the tub, the fragrance will linger long after. 

Arrowroot Powder
Essential or Fragrance Oils 

To one cup of arrowroot powder add about 15 drops of essential or fragrance oil.  Blend thoroughly and box.  

We use an extra blender container (glass) for all our crafting needs.  Plastic will scratch over time so act accordingly.  If you don't have a blender, the back of a spoon will work fine.

Body, Massage & Face Oils

Essential oils are very concentrated and should always be added to a carrier oil before applying to the skin.  By adding a few drops of essential oil to 2 tablespoons of carrier oil you can create a special message or body oil.  Note: Depending upon how strong the essential oils may be, rule-of-thumb additions are approximately 15 to 20 drops of essential oil per ounce of carrier oil.

NOTE: Do not treat infants with essences, even with the essences diluted.  A weak infusion of the appropriate herb in oil or water should be used instead.

Essential Oils for Skin Care

To 16 ounces of carrier oil (Turkey Red, Sweet Almond, Grapeseed, ect.) add approximately 1/4 oz essential oil(s).  1/4 oz is about 300 drops or 15-20 drops per ounce.  If using more than one essential oil adjust formula so that the total oils do not exceed 15-20 drops per ounce.  Note: Carrier oils to may be mixed and matched.  

For thousands of years the ancients established elaborate rituals that combine hot and cold baths, ointments and aromatic massages.  Essential oils and baths have synergistic effects.  They enhance the pleasure of bath for as they please the nose, they also please the spirit.  

To prepare your bath add 15 to 20 drops of essential oil(s) just before entering the water.  Swish oils to completely disburse.  If using an already pre-blended bath oil (carrier oil with essential oils) add about 2 tablespoons per bath.  Relax and enjoy!

Essential Oils for Hair Care

1 cup liquid soap
1/2 cup distilled water
1/2 tbsp. vegetable oil (jojoba, avocado, olive)
10 drops essential oil (rosemary, grapefruit)

Pour all ingredients into a bottle with a spray top and shake lightly.  (First put in the water, then the soap, since the mixture otherwise foams too much.)  Apply only a little of this shampoo since it has a high yield.  The vegetable oil restores fat to the hair which then feels soft and doesn't dry out.  Note: For seborrhea, hair loss, and/or dandruff, replace the water with aloe vera and be sure to use jojoba oil.  

25 oz. distilled water or spring water
2 oz. liquid soap
2 oz.aloe vera gel
2 tbsp. pectin
20 drops essential oil
Yield: About 29 oz.

Boil the water, then add the soft soap, and let this mixture simmer for about thirty minuets.  Dissolve the pectin in 2 to 3 cups of this mixture and stiring thoroughly, making sure no lumps form.  Now add the pectin solution, the aloe vera, and the essential oils to the original soap solution and pour it al into a bottle with a spray top.  Or divide teh gel between two bottles and keep the resever bottle in the refrigerator.  

After several hours, the hair-wash gel will have thickened and be ready for use.  If it isn't thick enough, add a bit more dissolved pectin to it and shake the bottle well.  If it has become too thick, add some water.  Instead of aloe vera, lavender water can be used.

5 oz. distilled, spring, or boiled water
2 oz. apple cider vinegar
10 to 15 drops essential oil(s)
Yield: 7 oz.

Mix ingredients well in a spray-top bottle.  The recipe features a strong concentration of apple cider vinegar, whose scent you will have to like (or at least not mind).  But since the rinse is washed out of the hair and the scent of the vinegar quickly vanishes, you don't have to worry about smelling like a pickle.  The amount is enough to rinse short hair many times.  Massage well into the hair and wash it out quickly.  The rinse removes calcium and soap residue, activates and stimulates the scalp, and is suitable for oily hair, dandruff, and itching of the scalp.  If the itching is very intense, use peppermint.

1 pint apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
1 pint boiled, distilled or spring water
25 drops rosemarry/rosewood (for dark hair) or chamomile (for light hair)
Yield: About 2 pints

Mix ingredients well in a spray-top bottle.  The recipe features a strong concentration of apple cider vinegar, whose scent you will have to like (or at least not mind).  But since the rinse is washed out of the hair and the scent of the vinegar quickly vanishes, you don't have to worry about smelling like a pickle.  The amount is enough to rinse short hair many times.  Massage well into the hair and wash it out quickly.  The rinse removes calcium and soap residue, activates and stimulates the scalp, and is suitable for oily hair, dandruff, and itching of the scalp.  If the itching is very intense, use peppermint.

Fizzing Bath Crystals

1/3 cup baking soda
1/4 cup citric acid crystals
1 Tbsp. cornstarch

Mix ingredients and place in an airtight container.  Keep salts dry, moisture will cause them to react and fizz. Sprinkle about 1/4 cup of the salts into warm tub of water.

Bath Balms

1 cup baking soda
1/2 cup cornstarch
1 cup citric or ascorbic acid
1/8 cup epson salt
1/2 cup olive oil
20 to 28 drops fragrance oil

Mix very well.  Add up to 1/2 cup olive oil, until the consistency of pastry dough.  Add 20 to 28 drops fragrance oil if you want them scented. Put on cookie sheet and put wax paper down.  Form into small, golf-sized balls, and store in cellophane wrapper, and then put in glass jar for each scent you make.