Cold-Process Soapmaking

Prepare to embark on the experience of handcrafting your own luxurious bath soaps. You will be surprised at just how easy it can be to create such beautiful bars from just a few basic ingredients in just a few easy steps.

The actual process of making soap includes the following basic steps:

HEATING: An oil/fats mixture and a water and lye solution are brought to a high temperature and combined.

SAPONIFICATION: The chemical reaction between the oils and water/lye solution.

MOLDING: The thickened, liquid soap is poured into prepared molds, then set aside to dry and harden.

CURING AND AGING: The process during which a batch of soap cools, dries and cures over a period of weeks.

The advantages of making your own soap are numerous. Firstly, the beneficial glycerin that occurs naturally in soap is left in rather than being processed out by chemicals.

Also, it is a very inexpensive way to indulge yourself. You can now afford to have the most luxurious bath accompaniments for only pennies out of your pocket, plus the thrill of making them yourself.

You can customize your soap to your own personal tastes, such as the color that you like, and any enrichments that please you.

Some general information that you might be interested in:

Lard and tallow were once used exclusively in soap making due to the fact that saturated fats give a better performance. Hydrogenated vegetable shortenings, however, can be excellent substitutes as they are hard at room temperature.

The animal fats and vegetable oils can be used interchangeably, with the vegetable shortening usually being preferred by vegetarians. However, each oil or fat has a different saponification value, meaning it will require a different amount of lye to accomplish a proper chemical reaction. So, it is important to refer to a saponification chart (available in soapmaking resource books or on the internet) prior to altering oils in a given recipe.

EQUIPMENT YOU WILL NEED

SAFETY EQUIPMENT: protective gloves (latex, vinyl, etc.); protective eye wear, such as glasses, goggles, etc.; disposable facemask (optional) to help minimize inhalation of noxious lye fumes; and white vinegar or lemon juice to counteract any burning or itching in case of skin contact with the lye.

A large lye-resistant (stainless steel or ceramic) pot. This is the master pot into which all the ingredients – fats or oils, lye/water solution and additives (scents, flowers, etc.) – will be blended. Make sure that there are no signs of age such as cracks or chips that may cause a reaction with the lye. Also, tin, aluminum, Teflon, etc., may corrode when in contact with lye.

Sturdy glass (Pyrex) or hard plastic pitcher (Rubbermaid works well) for combining the water and lye. This container should have a pouring spout and be able to withstand a high temperature of water.

Large stainless steel spoon (for stirring and blending ingredients in the master pot), and rubber or latex spatulas and/or wooden spoons (for stirring water/lye solution and scraping liquid soap out of pot and into the mold).

Candy thermometer.

Blankets or towels (for covering the soap during the cooling and aging process).

Plastic wrap (to use as a mold liner).

HINTS BEFORE YOU GET STARTED

Prepare your mold(s): An effective method for lining the wooden box mold is to smear a thin layer of vegetable shortening throughout the interior of the box and then to line the box with a piece of plastic wrap, using the shortening to keep the plastic wrap in place. Try to keep the plastic wrap as smooth as possible, thus minimizing the marks that will be left on your finished bars of soap. If you choose to use different molds, non-stick vegetable spray or petroleum jelly works well for greasing molds.

Have all your ingredients measured and ready. When measuring ingredients for soap, be sure to measure by weight (not liquid volume). All the ingredients in your kit have been pre-measured for this recipe; however, for future batches of soap you will want a nice kitchen scale available for use.

Protect your work area. Lye can be very damaging to your counter tops. You will want to cover your counters with newspaper and/or work on a wooden cutting board, etc. Have sponges, towels and vinegar available just in case of a spill in your work area.

OPTIONAL: If you choose to add flowers, herbs or abrasives to your soap, you will want to have these finely ground or chopped. A coffee grinder or mini food processor works well to grind a small amount (such as 1 – 2 tablespoons).

ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS

VEGETABLE TALLOW/SHORTENING: This is primarily made out of soybean oil and is best when used with other oils and not as the main ingredient. It adds stability and bulk to your soap and blends well with other oils and additives.

COCONUT OIL: Coconut oil will make a creamy soap with a luxurious lather. However, it can also dry out skin, so moisturizing oils should be added to the coconut oil base. Depending on the room temperature, your coconut oil may be clear and liquid or thick and white, in which case it will need to be warmed up just a bit to return to its liquid state.

COCOA BUTTER: Cocoa butter is a rich skin soother and softener that yields a creamy soap.

DISTILLED WATER: Many of today's water systems are being treated with a variety of chemicals in order to make our water more appealing. However, these additives may cause strange and unexpected reactions in your soap. Therefore, it is advised that you always use distilled water in your soapmaking in order to guarantee the best possible results for your efforts.

LYE (SODIUM HYDROXIDE): Be sure that you are using 100% sodium hydroxide (lye). Do not use drain cleaner!!! Drain cleaners are never okay to use in soapmaking. Check the label to be sure that there are no additional ingredients that could cause harmful reactions if used in this situation.

LAVENDER SOAP WITH COCOA BUTTER

Yields approximately 7 – 4 oz. bars of soap

8 oz. Distilled Water	½ oz. Lavender Essential Oil
3.1 oz. Lye	1 Tblsp. Lavender Flowers finely ground (optional)
12 oz. Vegetable Tallow	1 Tblsp. Lavender Flowers finely ground (optional)
2 oz. Cocoa Butter	8 oz. Coconut Oil

Combining water and lye: Be sure to perform this step either outside or somewhere with good ventilation (such as under your stove ventilation system), because the fumes from the water/lye solution are noxious and will take your breath away. While wearing your protective gloves, eye wear and facemask, measure the distilled water into your glass or plastic pitcher. Slowly and steadily add the lye crystals with one hand while stirring with the other hand until all crystals are dissolved. Be very careful not to splash any of the solution, as it immediately heats up to approximately 200° F and will burn.

This solution will now need to cool down to approximately 97° - 100° F. While it is cooling, continue with the next step:

Combining and heating the oils: Measure the oils and fats into the stainless steel pot and melt together over low heat, while stirring to keep the temperature constant. When melted, remove from heat immediately and cool to approximately 100° F.

In order to expedite the cooling process for the oil mixture, you may want to make a cold-water bath. Fill your sink or a large plastic tub with cold water approximately half the depth of the stainless steel pot containing the hot oils. Immerse the pot into the cold water and, while stirring regularly, monitor the temperature as it cools. In order to get an accurate reading, be sure to register the temperature from the center of the oil mixture and not near the edge, where it may be cooler. As the temperature approaches 110° F, remove the pot from the water.

At this point check the temperature level of the water/lye solution and repeat the cold-water bath process if necessary. Continue checking the temperature levels of both mixtures and cool each until both register a temperature of 97° - 100° F.

Now you are ready to combine your two mixtures and observe saponification!

Again, very slowly, steadily and carefully pour the water/lye solution into the oil mixture while stirring slowly and continuously with your other hand. Stir with slow and even strokes to mix the lye and the oils. This will begin the process of saponification. The mixture should now begin to thicken gradually.

Continue stirring until "tracing" occurs. When your liquid soap has turned soupy and opaque, resembles thin pudding, and you can "trace" a line or design on the surface of the soap when you pick up the spoon and let the liquid drizzle off, then both mixtures have saponified and become one substance. A vigorous stir will result in the best saponification. The goal is to stir briskly enough so that the ingredients are well blended but not too briskly so as to create air bubbles in the liquid soap. Tracing can take anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours... just be patient!

At this point you may add your essential oil, lavender flowers, and/or any other additives. Stir these in quickly and immediately pour the soap into your prepared mold.

Cover the surface of your soap and mold with another layer of plastic wrap. Next, cover the mold with blankets or towels. The purpose of this curing and insulation period is to cool the soap at a steady rate and to allow the saponification process to continue. If the soap cools too quickly, it will not harden correctly. Leave the soap mold alone for 24 hours (don't even peek!!!).

In 24 – 48 hours your soap should be firm enough to cut. Slide the sides out of the mold, remove the plastic wrap, and replace the soap and sides to the mold. Make sure that the notches are lined up on the mold sides, and, using a large, sharp, straight-edge knife, slice your bars of soap.

Once your bars are cut, place them on a piece of wax paper, cardboard or a drying rack. Store them in a dark, dry place, free of drafts and temperature changes. This is the second stage of the curing process. Allow the soaps to age for three to four weeks, during which time the soap will harden, and the pH will stabilize, making the soap mild.

Enjoy your new soaps!!!

IT DIDN'T WORK... CAN I FIX IT?

You just might, depending on what the problem is. Below is a list of some of the more common problems and some possible solutions.

Your soap should begin thickening in about 20 minutes. If it has not begun to thicken after 45 minutes, read on:

If you are trying to make soap on a hot summer afternoon, the outside temperature may not be allowing the soap to cool enough to begin the saponification process.

Fill the sink with very cool water to a depth of about half of the pan. Place the pan in the water and continue to stir. You should see results in about 10 minutes.

Stir until ready to put into the molds. But be careful, it will thicken much faster this way.

� If the temperature of your ingredients was just a little off you might try this:

Reheat your soap mixture over a low heat until a temperature of 110° F is reached. Continue to stir. Turn off the heat and stir for 20 minutes, or until thickened.

� If the mixture only thickens a little, and all else has failed, pour the soap into the mold and leave it overnight. Check it in the morning, and you just might have a surprise waiting.

� If your batch begins to resemble cottage cheese, unfortunately it has curdled and there is no use saving it. Throw it out immediately. Use a large plastic bag into which to pour the mixture, and then wrap another paper bag around it. Dispose of this in a safe manner. Curdling is a result of inaccurate soap measurements or a too-rapid cooling process.

ADDITIONAL SUGGESTIONS

REFERENCE MATERIALS: At Lavender Lane Forever we have available several books and other reference materials full of information and ideas to further your soapmaking interests.

GLYCERIN SOAP:

Another soapmaking idea is glycerin soap. These translucent bars of soap can be cut with a table knife, melted in the microwave or on the stovetop, and then poured into individual molds. The hardened soap can then be popped out in about 1 hour. These soaps may be scented, colored, or have additional additives mixed into the heated, liquid form. Feel free to experiment with your favorite essential oils and any combinations you like.

‹ Back to Recipe List

Continue Shopping ›